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  • Couple of questions from a noobie.

     Steven updated 10 months, 2 weeks ago 2 Members · 2 Posts
  • Steven

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    I’ve recently decided to get into reloading, for now it’ll just be 30-06 and .223 until I acquire more firearms in various calibers. I have just a few questions. I apologize if these have been asked before, I’m just wary of potentially harming myself and others or destroying one of my rifles, especially my M1.

    **Questions**

    1. I’ve acquired some primers through a buddy of mine, however he stated they were in the garage for around a year more or less. Are they safe to use or should I properly dispose of them?
    2. I plan to reload 30-06 for my M1 Garand. I’m aware of the proper powder to use in it and the bullet grain. (I’ve installed a plug as well) Is there a specific die I should use such as full size or just stick to neck sizing dies? Or a specific primer to use as well? Also do I need to crimp my bullets or does it depend?
    3. Do you guys rinse your brass before tumbling? Like soap and warm water then agitate the bath mixture every couple of minutes?
    4. Is there anything you’ve learned over your experiences reloading that a new guy should definitely be aware of?

    Thanks for the help!

  • HumidNut

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    1) I’ve shot worse. If they aren’t corroded, load up a couple test rounds and give it a whirl. The only thing that I would *personally* steer away from, is if they’re Federal 210’s. They’re a bit soft for that floating firing pin. I use Winchester and S&B for mine, they’re a bit harder.

    2) You will absolutely have to full-length size the rounds every load. Semi-automatic rifles require as close to spec brass as possible to feed properly, and the extraction of the M1 tends to be very difficult on brass anyways. Full length size every time. If you insist on not full-length sizing, be sure to learn out how to safely “mortar” your rifle.

    3) When I used walnut media, no, I just tumbled and loaded. Stainless media wet tumbling, I make sure its all completely dry before loading.

    4) the gas plug fucked up my groups. I developed a consistent 1MOA load (my M1 wears a new barrel), put the rifle in the safe for the winter months, bought plug, installed plug, shot in the spring. Groups were 3MOA on a GOOD day. I’ve gotta re-do my entire load development.

  • Oliver_X

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    1. Probably, most likely, if stored in original packaging, completely fine. Mine have lived in an uninsulated garage for a decade in some cases and they have no discoloration and go bang every time. Don’t use soft primers in rifles with a floating pin.
    2. 30-06, and .223 for that matter, are often loaded at levels far beyond what is safe in some historic and even some modern arms. Check your data against multiple sources specific to the arms you re going to use them in and then work up your loads carefully. Garands in particular need careful choice of powder and components and can easily be damaged with modern off-the-shelf ammo. All semi-auto rounds should be full length resized and the shoulder bumped. Neck sizing is for bolt guns. The Garand, if it’s going to have issues, will have issues with loading and extracting. The op-rod and it’s associated parts are the most susceptible to damage and having hard to extract ammo will only exacerbate that. If the bullets have a cannelure, crimping them is fine. Don’t crimp non-cannelured bullets. Tension alone should prevent set-back, but crimping can have advantages. Do your own research and see what conclusion you come to.
    3. I wet tumble with stainless media, Dawn soap and Lemishine. I de-cap first, tumble, size, trim, chamfer, swage or cut primer pockets then tumble again to remove lube and burr remnants. My brass is clean and shiny when it goes back to the press.
    4. I’ve been reloading for a bit over a decade and tens of thousands of rounds. I’m still learning. Reloading can be as easy or difficult as you make it. There will be tons of seemingly conflicting information out there and much of it comes from the goals of the individuals involved. Even at the highest levels of competition you will find disparate methods and goals. Some people are trying to make the absolute best ammo possible while others are trying to efficiently load quantities of ammo good enough for their intended sport. Some need perfectly accurate while others need consistent and reliable. Some need all the velocity they can get while others only need to know what their velocity is while keeping barrel life reasonable. So, for any given bit of information you find consider the source and how reliable the source is and whether or not it aligns with your intentions.

  • theBFsniper

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    Hornady load manuals has data specific for M1s. I’ve had luck with H4895 and 150gr fmj or 168gr bthp. H4895 in my tests seems more temp stable than IMR4895, I also don’t recommend Federal primers in M1/M1a. My M1a and another guys at the range will slam fire with Fed primers, and I know a guy that had his M1 out of battery detonate Federal Gold Medal (this was in the 90s though). I use Winchester or CCI primers in my M1 loads.

  • MNBigDog

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    My first suggestion would be to buy and read The ABC’s of Reloading, from cover to cover, BEFORE you start reloading (if you haven’t already). I also suggest looking at a few reloading videos, especially ones related to the 30/06 and .223. There’s a really good guy for new reloaders to watch, and his channel is AmmoSmith. His video’s are a bit dated, but he explains things clearly and concise. There are several others out there, with excellent instruction.

    You could also get your “buddy” to mentor you, until you are comfortable with the whole process of loading bottleneck cased rifle rounds. In no way am I trying to dissuade you or be a smart ass. I have a best friend that has been reloading over 40 years, both for himself and commercially. I can’t even imagine how much he helped me learn, without having to do it, on my own, through trial and error. I even learned (yep, I’m an old redneck..lol) him a few new tricks.

    Good luck with your journey into reloading, and welcome to our madness…

  • JiuJitsu_Ronin

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    1. Personally I’d just start with a fresh box but that’s just me. You likely won’t encounter any issues. I’d load a dozen and see how they work out. It would be a shame to load hundreds only to find they don’t work.

    2. FL is will shape shoulders and neck, neck will only shape neck. FL will work the brass more than a neck die will. I’d only do neck on brass fired out of your gun. FL for newer brass.

    3. Don’t have much experience with dry tumbling. Wet tumbling will yield better results.

    4. This whole hobby is a rabbit hole. You can invest $200 in your equipment or $10 grand. Some put a lot of attention and detail into things others would overlook, you need to assess the reason you want to reload and just how deep the hole should go for you. The other is to just be consistent if you want consistent results.

  • bassjam1

    Guest
    December 17, 2019 at 7:40 pm

    I would HIGHLY recommend you start reloading a pistol caliber. There’s a lot more involved with rifle bottlenecked cases.

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